🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.